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There are retreats, and then there are super retreats. And then there is Kaliyoga, set in one of the most stunning locations in Europe in the Alpuharras mountains of Southern Spain. The down side of this is that the journey is hot, dusty and two hours from Malaga airport. But frankly, the travelling is worth it. I knew that it was going to be a good week when I arrived; soft music played in the background as I was shown round the beautiful old Andalucian house which overlooks a pool and amazing views of the mountains. To me there are three things that make a first-rate yoga retreat. Excellent food, good yoga (of course) and beautiful scenery. In which case Kaliyoga has this recipe for perfection in spades. Kaliyoga was set up in 2002 by Rosie Wadham and Jonathan Miles. They both trained with Godfrey Devereux in Ibiza, where they met in romantic circumstances in a tipi (a large, rather luxurious tent) under the starry skies. Having got together, they decided to set up a retreat that would concentrate on a dynamic form of classical hatha yoga with emphasis on the breath. Rosie explains: "We travelled all over the world, including India, to find the perfect setting for our dream retreat. In the end we realised that we wanted something not too far from the UK and we decided that the mountains of the Alpuharras in Andalucia offered what we were looking for a pure unpolluted environment, tranquility and stunning scenery." The scenery certainly is spectacular. Kaliyoga, so named after the Goddess Kali who represents the totality of the universe, is set in a lush, verdant valley and surrounded by mountains on all sides. The retreat is a few miles from a town called Orgiva which attracts a large ‘new age’ population because of its reputation for being on auspicious ley-lines. There certainly is a kind of energy about the whole area, all of which contributes to the unique ambience of the holiday. The main building of the retreat, built in traditional Spanish rustic style, is set around a courtyard. High ceilings with canes and chestnut beams and polished terracotta floors with rugs and squashy sofas all add to the atmosphere. The bedrooms are also beautifully furnished with comfortable beds and rugs. Kaliyoga also has a swimming pool that overlooks the mountains and, as it can get very hot in the summer, this is a great bonus. There is also massage, acupuncture, relexology and shiatsu available for those who want to spoil themselves and relax just that little bit more. The vegetarian food is also exceptional. Rosie, who employs two chefs explains: "I think good healthy food is part of the retreat experience, and so I trawled through over 1,000 recipes in order to devise the menu. I add my own herbs and spices and all the ingredients are local and organic if possible ." This is a good example of the kind of attention to detail that Jonathan and Rosie take in order to make everyone’s stay very special. During the week that I stayed, we all unanimously agreed that Kaliyoga is a gastronomic experience in itself. However, we were really there for the yoga. The yoga studio, where the classes take place, is set about 60 metres from the main building in a beautiful open structure with a wooden floor and cane roof, and again has a truly fabulous setting overlooking the mountains. There really is nothing better than doing sun salutations first thing in the morning looking up at the green hills as the sun slowly rises. The brand of yoga taught here is not just yoga as stretch exercise; it is yoga that aims to get students to focus on their awareness through the practise of pranayama combined with bandhas and meditation. It is always tempting when talking about a retreat to wax lyrically about how great every aspect is. My one reservation is that during the two-and a-half hour yoga class in the morning, Rosie pushed us quite hard, which didn’t always suit me, or those who didn’t have an Ashtanga background. However, many of the guests were happy with this and as there were two teachers, each with their own style, it is natural to have a preference and mine was for the more gentle approach. It is worth noting though that you need a reasonable level of fitness to come to the Kaliyoga. Overall I found that Jonathan and Rosie’s teaching of asanas and dynamic breathing was incredibly invigorating. There was also a class in the evening which varied in content from gentle Tibetan breathing to discussions on yoga philosophy led by Jonathan. My favourite class was when Rosie and Jonathan took us on a trip up a mountain past a fresh spring of fizzy water (really!) on to a remote plateau to practise some meditation. Again the scenery was breathtaking vast imposing mountains and crashing waterfalls all adding to the experience of being at one with nature. At all times Rosie and Jonathan were welcoming and made a real effort to help everyone feel comfortable and at home. The general atmosphere of the retreat is relaxed and informal guests are encouraged to help themselves to teas and snacks or assist with loading the dishwasher. If it is complete luxury you are after then this may not be for you, but if you want space, beauty and excellent yoga taught by dedicated teachers then Kaliyoga should be on your wish list of retreats. In my case, the results speak for themselves. Like anyone, I go to a retreat, not just for relaxation but because I want to improve my health. During my time at Kaliyoga my energy levels soared, I felt better than I had in years, and my husband commented when he came to collect me that I looked ten years younger and less than a week older! Altogether the group said that they felt restored a bit achy perhaps in undiscovered muscle groups after some strong asanas but we are all determined to carry on the pranayama and the flowing postures every morning at home because the benefits were so astonishing. However, my house doesn’t have the great mountain setting or a swimming pool and I can’t do food like Rosie, so it won’t be quite the same. Basically, I can’t wait to go back and what better endorsement can you give than that?
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