“Come on you soppy thing!” says Steve, “It all happened over six centuries ago!” But I still can’t help shedding yet another tear. My partner and I are in Coimbra in Central Portugal and I am sitting by a picturesque waterfall flowing from an ancient spring, known as Fonte das Lagrimas, the ‘Fountain of Tears’. For this place and the verdant woods surrounding it are the setting of one of the most heart-rending tales in Portuguese history, the tragedy of Pedro I and his soulmate Inês de Castro, lady-in-waiting to his wife. According to legend, it was here, where the lovers enjoyed their trysts, that the beautiful Inês was stabbed to death on the orders of Pedro’s father, Alfonso IV.